The Rolex Datejust and Rolex Submariner are two of the most recognizable watches in the Rolex lineup, but they were designed with very different purposes in mind.
The Datejust was introduced in 1945 as an everyday wristwatch with a date display, while the Submariner debuted in 1953 as a purpose-built divers’ watch. Both models have evolved significantly over the decades, so the specifications of a pre-owned Rolex can vary depending on its specific reference and year.
That’s especially important when shopping for a pre-owned Rolex. Pre-owned inventory can include watches from different generations, from older examples to relatively recent models that have seen very little wear.
If you’re comparing a pre-owned Rolex Datejust and Submariner, here’s what separates the two models and what to look for when comparing specific watches.
The Rolex Datejust was introduced in 1945 and became known for its date display at 3 o’clock. Rolex also introduced the Jubilee bracelet specifically for the launch of the Datejust.
One of the defining characteristics of the Datejust is the variety of configurations that have been produced over the years. Depending on the reference and production period, you can find different case sizes, precious metals such as gold, stainless steel, or combinations of metals, bezels, bracelets, and dial designs.
The familiar Cyclops lens over the date is another feature strongly associated with the Datejust.
You may also hear the term fluted bezel when shopping for a Datejust. A fluted bezel has a series of grooves or ridges running around its circumference. These grooves catch the light and give the bezel a distinctive appearance.
A Datejust can also have a smooth bezel, which has a clean, uninterrupted surface without the ridges found on a fluted bezel.
These two bezel styles can give otherwise similar watches a noticeably different look.
Today’s Datejust collection includes several case sizes, including 31 mm, 36 mm, and 41 mm models. A current Datejust 41, for example, is rated to 100 meters or approximately 330 feet of water resistance and uses Rolex’s calibre 3235 self-winding movement.
But if you’re looking at a pre-owned Datejust, don’t assume those specifications automatically apply to the watch you’re considering. A Datejust from an earlier generation may have a different case size, movement, bracelet, crystal, or other specifications.
That’s part of what makes shopping for a pre-owned Rolex different from simply choosing a current model.
If you’re comparing Datejust watches, the bezel is one of the details you’ll notice immediately.
A fluted bezel has a series of evenly spaced grooves around the outside of the bezel. A smooth bezel has a continuous, polished surface.
The difference is primarily visual on modern watches, but the fluted bezel has an interesting history.
Rolex explains that the original fluting had a functional purpose: it helped secure the bezel to the watch case and contributed to the waterproof construction of the Oyster case. Over time, the fluted bezel became an important part of Rolex’s visual identity.
Today, the fluted bezel is one of the features most closely associated with the Datejust.
When comparing two Datejust watches, the difference between a fluted and smooth bezel can make a significant difference in the overall appearance of the watch.
The Submariner has a very different history.
Rolex introduced the Submariner in 1953 as a divers’ watch. The model has evolved over the decades, but its connection to diving remains central to its design.
Current Submariner models are rated to 300 meters or approximately 1,000 feet of water resistance and feature a unidirectional rotating bezel with a graduated 60-minute scale.
That rotating bezel serves a practical purpose: it allows a diver to keep track of elapsed time underwater.
Current Submariner models also feature a Triplock winding crown and an Oyster bracelet with an Oysterlock safety clasp and Rolex Glidelock extension system.
The Glidelock system allows the wearer to adjust the length of the bracelet without tools. This is particularly useful for divers because the bracelet can be expanded to fit comfortably over a wetsuit sleeve.
The Submariner’s design is therefore not just about appearance. Several of its features were developed around its original purpose as a professional diving watch.
As with the Datejust, however, a pre-owned Submariner can have specifications that differ from the current model. A watch from an earlier generation shouldn’t automatically be assumed to have the same case size, movement, bezel insert, bracelet, or water-resistance rating as a current Submariner.
When shopping pre-owned, the specific reference matters.
The easiest way to distinguish a Datejust from a Submariner is to look at the overall design.
The Datejust has traditionally offered a wide range of configurations. Depending on the specific watch, you might find a smooth or fluted bezel, Jubilee or Oyster bracelet, different precious metals, and a wide variety of dial colors and designs.
The Submariner has a much more recognizable sport-watch appearance. Its rotating dive bezel, Oyster bracelet, highly legible dial, and robust case are all closely tied to its history as a diving watch.
That doesn’t mean the Datejust is strictly a dress watch or the Submariner is strictly a sports watch. Both can be worn in many different settings.
A Datejust can work just as well with casual clothing as it can with business or formal attire. A Submariner can be worn every day whether or not the owner ever goes diving.
The difference is really in the design and intended function of the models.
Water resistance is one of the clearest technical differences between the two models.
Current Datejust models are rated to 100 meters or approximately 330 feet, while current Submariner models are rated to 300 meters or approximately 1,000 feet.
That difference reflects their original purposes. The Datejust was designed as an everyday wristwatch, while the Submariner was developed specifically for underwater use.
However, when buying a pre-owned Rolex, it’s important to look at the specifications of the individual watch.
A vintage or older-generation Datejust should not automatically be assumed to have the same water-resistance rating as a current Datejust. The same is true for a Submariner from an earlier generation.
Water resistance can also be affected by the condition and service history of an individual watch, so it’s worth having a pre-owned Rolex properly inspected rather than relying solely on the model name.
The bezel is another major difference between the two.
The Datejust has been produced with different bezel designs over the years. The fluted bezel is one of its most recognizable features, while smooth bezels are also available on certain references.
As mentioned above, a fluted bezel has a series of grooves or ridges around its circumference, while a smooth bezel has a continuous surface.
The Submariner’s bezel is much more functional. It rotates in one direction and has a 60-minute graduated scale designed for timing during a dive. Current models use a Cerachrom ceramic bezel insert.
The Datejust’s bezel is primarily a design element today, although the fluting originally served a functional purpose as part of the way the bezel was secured to the Oyster case.
The Submariner’s rotating bezel, by contrast, remains an important part of the watch’s diving functionality.
The bracelet can have a major effect on how a Rolex looks and feels on the wrist.
The Datejust is particularly associated with the Jubilee bracelet, which Rolex created for the model when it launched in 1945. Datejust watches have also been produced with Oyster bracelets.
The Submariner uses an Oyster bracelet. Current Submariner models feature an Oysterlock safety clasp and Glidelock extension system.
The Glidelock allows the wearer to extend the bracelet without tools, which is especially useful when a diver needs to wear the watch over a wetsuit sleeve.
The Jubilee bracelet gives many Datejust models a different appearance from the sportier three-link Oyster bracelet used on the Submariner.
But pre-owned Rolexes can span many generations. Bracelet styles and clasp designs can vary depending on the reference and production period.
If you’re comparing two pre-owned watches, it’s worth looking at the actual bracelet rather than assuming every Datejust or Submariner has the same configuration.
The Datejust has a date display at 3 o’clock, which is one of the defining characteristics of the model.
The Submariner is available in versions both with and without a date. The Submariner Date includes a date display and Cyclops lens, while the standard Submariner does not.
This can be an important distinction for someone deciding between the two.
If you want the classic Submariner design without a date window, the standard Submariner offers that configuration. If you want a date display, you can look at the Submariner Date or consider a Datejust.
Case size is another area where the two collections can differ.
The current Datejust collection includes 31 mm, 36 mm, and 41 mm models, while the current Submariner is 41 mm.
However, case diameter doesn’t tell the entire story.
The shape of the case, thickness, bracelet, bezel and dial all affect how a watch looks and feels on the wrist. Two watches with the same diameter can have noticeably different wrist presence.
That’s particularly relevant when comparing a Datejust 41 with a current Submariner. Both are 41 mm, but their designs and proportions are very different.
And when you’re shopping pre-owned, you may be looking at older references in sizes that aren’t part of today’s Rolex lineup.
That’s why trying a watch on can be more useful than simply comparing the numbers.
One of the advantages of shopping for a pre-owned Rolex is the range of watches available.
A pre-owned Rolex doesn’t necessarily mean an old Rolex.
You might find a Datejust that has been around for decades, or you might find a relatively recent Datejust that has seen very little wear. The same applies to the Submariner.
That means two watches with the same model name can have significant differences.
For example, a vintage Datejust and a recent Datejust may differ in case size, movement, crystal, bracelet, clasp, dial, and other details. A vintage Submariner can likewise have specifications that are very different from a current-generation model.
When comparing pre-owned Rolex watches, it’s therefore important to look beyond the model name and consider the specific reference and generation.
That’s where the details become particularly interesting.
When you’re shopping for a pre-owned Datejust or Submariner, the model is only the starting point.
Pay attention to the specific reference number, approximate production period, condition, dial and bezel configuration, bracelet condition, service history when available, and whether the watch comes with its original box and papers.
The materials used can also vary significantly. Depending on the reference, a Rolex may be made from stainless steel, gold, or a combination of precious metals and stainless steel.
The originality of the watch’s components can also be an important consideration, particularly when comparing older or vintage Rolex watches.
It’s also worth remembering that box and papers are not what make a Rolex authentic. The watch itself and its components need to be properly evaluated.
Because specifications have changed over the decades, it’s important to evaluate the individual watch rather than applying the specifications of a current Rolex model to an older reference.
The Datejust and Submariner are both versatile Rolex watches, but they have very different designs and histories.
The Datejust offers a wide variety of configurations and a design that can transition easily between casual, business, and formal settings. Depending on the reference, you can find different case sizes, precious metals, bezels, bracelets, and dial designs.
The Submariner has a more focused design built around its history as a divers’ watch. Its rotating bezel, higher water-resistance rating on current models, and sportier appearance distinguish it from the Datejust.
There isn’t a requirement that you be a diver to wear a Submariner, just as there isn’t a requirement that you wear formal clothing to wear a Datejust.
The better starting point is to think about what you like about each model, how you plan to wear the watch, and which specific reference and configuration you’re considering.
Shopping for a pre-owned Rolex gives you the opportunity to compare watches from different generations, including older examples and relatively recent models that have seen little wear.
At Leo Hamel Fine Jewelers & Jewelry Buyers in San Diego, our pre-owned Rolex inventory changes regularly, so the specific Datejust and Submariner models available will vary.
If you’re deciding between a Datejust and Submariner, seeing the watches in person can make the differences much easier to understand. You can compare the case size, bracelet, dial, bezel, condition, and overall feel on your wrist rather than relying solely on photographs and specifications.
Stop by the Leo Hamel Fine Jewelers showroom and see what certified pre-owned Rolex’s we have available or click HERE to browse our collection online.